I installed this starter and starter adapter on a Beechcraft Debonair IO-470 engine last week… the starter adapters (or sometimes called a clutch, or starter drive,) sometimes begin to slip, and when that happens, it’s time for overhaul.
It’s also recommended to overhaul the starter at the same time, or install a new one.
There are also different opinions about the newer “lightweight starters” like Sky-Tek and others. Some prefer the older style starters due to some past problems with certain lightweight starters.
Regardless of which starter you choose, take some time to do some careful research.
And if you need some technical help, you can always call Jimmy and Debbie Schreiner at Modified Aircraft Accessories. Together, the husband and wife team run their repair station at Brooks, Kentucky, and they do excellent work.
One of their most popular free resources is the “Pilot’s Tip of the Week.” It always starts with a question, followed by a brief and practical answer, both in print and in audio form.
At the end, you can make your own choice about what you would do in that situation. Check it out… it will make you a better pilot!
Also, as an airplane owner or operator, you will love the engine book that was recently published. It’s called “Airplane Engines – A Pilot-Friendly Manual.”
Now back to the starter on the Beechcraft Debonair… after we reinstalled the starter adapter and installed an overhauled starter, it still seemed a little sluggish for starting.
After some troubleshooting and discovering high resistance in the starter solenoid (contactor) we decided to install a new one. Probably not a bad idea at all, since this one looks like it may have been original. Check out the old one beside the new one:
It was also a good time to replace some other old parts and install a couple new ring terminals and terminal boots:
With the new starter solenoid installed, the whole system worked very well, and the airplane is now back in service.
Other items mentioned in this episode:
A Piper cub being ferried by Marie-Claire Laberge… she stopped at SHD and I learned she works for “FullThrottleAviationLLC.com,” a company that provides world-wide ferry services for all kinds of airplanes.
And finally, a sight I had never seen before rolling into SHD the other day… a turbo-prop Maule!
I researched this airplane and found it on YouTube… it was for sale about a year ago for $399,000
Valve lapping is sometimes a great option for improving cylinder compression and extending the life of an exhaust valve. We’ll talk about it in today’s episode.
Pilot Workshops.com is our sponsor for this episode, and I wholeheartedly recommend their resources.
Be sure to sign up for the “Tip of the Week,” and receive a short, practical tip every Wednesday morning that will make you a better pilot.
PilotWorkshops.com also has simple and practical book about Airplane Engines. It’s packed full of easy-to-understand information for pilots. As we approach the season of colder temperatures, you might want to check out the section on pre-heating.
When you purchase the book, you’ll get both the digital copy and the print copy.
In today’s episode, we have three issues from Trace’s Cessna 310 this past week:
Lapping an exhaust valve.
Repositioning and correctly installing an engine shock mount.
Evaluating a vacuum system issue, and making a plan.
First, the lapping project. At the recent annual inspection, the compression in the right engine cylinder #4 was in the mid-50’s. After lapping we got a solid 64/80, a significant improvement.
Second, one engine shock mount was out of position:
The 1/4 inch gap got my attention and we had to hoist the engine and loosen the bolt to install the lower shock mount correctly. Here’s the result – notice the 1/4 inch gap has been closed.
The third isssue showed up when we ran the engines. Notice the oil pressure gauges… only the left engine is running. But the vacuum gauge indicates both vacuum pumps are operating.
This usually indicates a problem with the vacuum manifold valve. Most likely, it will need to be replaced.
After we checked and verified there were no oil leaks, Trace took me for a ride in his Cessna 310… a great experience! Thank you Trace!
Trace has been a Navy F-18 test pilot for quite a few years, and it was awesome to fly with him!
And to wrap us this episode, I also met Tobin this past week, owner of a very nice Piper Cherokee Six. He dropped his airplane off at SHD for his annual inspection. Hopefully I can give an update in the future about how his inspection turns out.
Trace, and Tobin, it was a pleasure to meet both of you this past week!
The post, “157 – Valve lapping, shock mounts, and vacuum issues,” appeared first at AirplaneOwnerMaintenance.com
Although a shop vac might not pull as much vacuum as an engine driven vacuum pump, it can still be useful for some parts of the troubleshooting process. This was just one thing we did on the path to solving a very strange vacuum problem. Listen to the story in today’s podcast episode.
Regardless of where you are in your aviation journey, PilotWorkshops has the perfect resources to help you become a safer and more proficient pilot.
Subscribe to the Tip of the Week, and every Wednesday you’ll receive a fun pilot tip that includes a question, a short 2 minute or less expert answer, and a quiz to ask what you would do in that scenario. Check it out… it’s one of the emails I look forward to!
And finally, be sure to check out the newly released book, “Airplane Engines: A Pilot-Friendly Manual.” It’s packed full of useful information that’s easy to understand. For example, you can learn about doing an in-flight ignition check, or even an in-flight induction leak check, and so much more. Click here for more information.
Now for today’s episode… we’re featuring two squawks on a twin Cessna.
Squawk #1: The left fuel gauge was completely inoperative, both for the main tank and the aux tank.
In this episode, we talk about the troubleshooting process that led to changing the fuel quantity indicator. The gauge from eBay worked great, and the system was back to normal.
Squawk #2: The vacuum system had a weird problem… the vacuum gauge showed that both vacuum pumps were functioning, but the vacuum was very low (approx. 1 inch of Hg instead of 5 inches.) Apparently it doesn’t take much vacuum to pull the inop indicator in (the little red button for the left and right vacuum pumps in the vacuum gauge.) This squawk was challenging! Actually, the solution turned out to be simple, but the discovery process was not so simple.
We checked an extensive list of components, both in the vacuum system and in the surface deice system, since the two are inter-related, and the squawk had two parts: the vacuum indication was very low, and the wing deice boots were not being pulled firmly against the surface of the wing (which requires good vacuum.)
Here’s the deice valve in the right engine compartment, one of the components we tested in this process.
Thankfully, we did not end up ordering any high-priced components in this scenario, because the solution turned out to be very simple… we removed an elbow between two vacuum hoses, and installed plugs in them instead. Listen to the audio for the details.
Reminder: the video training course for “Servicing Landing Gear Shock Struts” will be coming soon… be watching for more details.
The post, “156 – The Weirdest Vacuum System Problem I’ve Ever Seen” appeared first at AirplaneOwnerMaintenance.com
This is what Josh discovered recently in his Beechcraft Debonair while getting some training in his airplane with an instructor as part of the Bonanza Pilot Proficiency Program (BPPP.) The gear motor was the culprit.
Josh’s story is the main feature in today’s episode, but first I want to thank PilotWorkshops for sponsoring the podcast.
The more I learn about PilotWorkshops, the more impressed I am. The team led by Mark Robidoux is producing all kinds of valuable resources to help us as pilots go beyond being legal and certified, to becoming proficient and safe.
And I’ve discovered when we are proficient and safe, it’s a lot more fun to fly!
So I encourage you to do two things:
ONE: Go to PilotWorkshops.com and sign up for the “Tip of the Week.” It’s a short, 2 minute or less, valuable lesson for pilots, both in print and audio form… there’s a question, followed by an expert answer, along with a fun quiz at the end about “what you would do” in that scenario.
I had the privilege of helping to edit the engine book and provide photos, and I can say with confidence it’s a GREAT resource for pilots!
Now back to Josh and his gear motor.
Sometimes the gear would retract and extend, and sometimes not.
Listen to the story in today’s episode to find out how things turned out with Josh’s instructor that day, as well as why they ended up carefully towing the airplane back to the hangar by hand, and how the aircraft finally ended up on jacks in the shop at Classic Aviation LLC at KSHD, where the landing gear motor could be removed for repair.
The gear motor is on its way to Kevin O’Halloran for repair. I was totally impressed with the procedure he uses to repair these 12 volt “Lamb” gear motors. (Those are the only ones he works on.)
We’re also changing all 3 nose gear rod ends, hardware, down spring, and shear pin at this time (as recommended by ABS.)
Here’s the existing nose gear down spring, shear pin, idler arm rod end and hardware…a portion of the parts we’ll be replacing (looks like they’ve been there for a LONG TIME.)
Josh will be good to go for a long time as far as the landing gear goes.
I found a sketchy-looking entry about the gear motor in the airframe log from 1996. The best I can tell, here’s what it says:
“Removed landing gear motor, cut armature, new brushes, new bearings, replaced overhauled motor, retract tested.”
Sorry, but for me, sloppy maintenance entries makes me wonder if the work was also sloppy.
It’s always best to type maintenance record entries.
And one last thing that’s not a big deal, but it indicates the maintenance manual procedure was not quite finished, is the shimmy dampener. The cotter pin should be slightly spread apart to allow inserting a small measuring rod or wire to determine when the fluid is low.
If you’d like me to travel to your airport for some very specific maintenance oriented training with you, then send me an email: dean@airplaneownermaintenance.com
Or, to set up a virtual call:
Schedule a FaceTime call with me in 2 simple steps
Go to my calendar and pick a time spot that’s good for you.
A good friend from another airport recently bought this Piper Archer, and I’ve had the opportunity to do a little maintenance on it and take a look around.
This is one of three airplanes I’ve had an opportunity to look at recently… all three were in annual inspection, but I noticed a few things that could use some attention. We’ll save the Archer for last.
First, a Cessna 172:
I noticed the fuel strainer (gascolator) was safety wired backwards!
The same Cessna 172 also had a small oil leak… I later discovered the rocker box oil return fitting was loose and needed to be resealed:
The bottom cowling was telling a story about that oil leak… it’s always a good idea to look for oil in the bottom cowling and then try to determine where it’s coming from:
Second, a Beech Bonanza:
No pictures for this one, but here are a few things I found on this one:
No copper safety wire on the emergency exit window pins.
No safety wire on the fillister head screws in one of the ruddervator hinge brackets.
One loose ruddervator hinge bolt.
One worn ruddervator thrust bearing.
Listen to the audio for more details on this one.
And third, a Piper Archer:
One of the brake hoses was leaking – the nut was only finger tight!
The cabin door hinge pins were worn and the door was hitting the frame when closing. New pins and some shim washers fixed the problem.
The carb heat door shaft grommets were worn:
The left cowling pin bushing bracket was loose:
And finally, the fuel primer nozzle was really dry and stiff:
I always love to discover things on airplanes that need attention.
What about you? Could you benefit from having me look at your airplane? Send me an email to explore the options. dean{at}airplaneownermaintenance{dot}com
Or, go ahead and set up a Facetime consulting call and we can look at your airplane together and discuss any issues you might have:
Schedule a FaceTime call with me in 2 simple steps
Go to my calendar and pick a time spot that’s good for you.
On the scheduled day, I’ll call you and we can discuss and examine your airplane concerns. (Many prefer FaceTime for this.)
Other resources mentioned in this episode:
PilotWorkshop.com – This is a great place to help you stay sharp as a pilot… be sure to sign up to receive the “Tip of the week,” a short, 2 minute or less, valuable tip to make you a better pilot… and it’s free!
The post “154 – If I Looked at YOUR Airplane, What Would I Discover?” appeared first at AirplaneOwnerMaintenance.com
Josh recently purchased his 1963 Beechcraft Debonair and needed some help, so I flew to his airport and spent the good part of a day with him. We replaced a broken exhaust support angle on the right exhaust tailpipe, and then we took a good look around the airplane.
It surprised me when we discovered missing cotter pins in the left and right main landing gear uplock cable clevis bolts.
Toward the end of our time that day, we borescoped the exhaust valves, and they were all in very good condition. Here’s the exhaust valve in cylinder #1:
This is the appearance of a very healthy exhaust valve.
I flew the little Cessna 150 home and got it tied down before dark… what an adventure!
If you’d like to talk about the possibility of having me come to YOUR AIRPORT for some consulting and training on your airplane, send me an email, and we can set up a time to talk. Even if it’s across the country, I can hop on the airlines if necessary. Don’t hesitate to contact me, and we can make a plan.
Contact me at dean{at}airplaneownermaintenance{dot}com.
Final tip for today: Check your ignition switch and make sure you cannot remove the key unless it’s in the “OFF” position… watch for the condition in the following video, which is VERY DANGEROUS if the key is removed with one or both mags on, and the prop is rotated!
The post “153 – A Flying and Maintenance Adventure at Ravenswood WV” appeared first on AirplaneOwnerMaintenance.com
This was Jim’s story when he brought his airplane in for the annual inspection.
Listen to today’s episode to find out what we did with Jim’s door latching system… he did most of the work on that issue, and I think his wife will fly with him now!
Other items of interest in this episode:
Kat’s story about the time her student overprimed the engine and it caught on fire.
Comments and questions from Alan Christy.
Voice message and a question from Dan Douillard.Here’s the Aviation Consumer article about vacuum pumps I referenced in the podcast episode:
On the scheduled day, I’ll call you and we can discuss and examine your airplane concerns. (Many prefer FaceTime for this.)
Now back to Jim’s V-tail Bonanza:
We fixed quite a few squawks on the airplane, and here are a few I mentioned in this episode:
The electric fuel boost pump was leaking at the case drain tube.
The D’Shannon engine baffle scoop for extra cooling on the cooling fins of cylinder #6, was installed upside down, and pointed at the exhaust riser.
The throttle microswitch for the magic hand landing gear safety system, was worn and one terminal was very loose.
The left aileron inboard hinge was improperly installed, with the bottom 2 screws not even in the holes of the hinge!
The main landing gear uplock springs were worn and rusty.
The shimmy dampener needed resealing and servicing.
And of course, as the titleindicates, we fixed Jim’s door latch (Jim did most of the work.)
Here are the corresponding repairs for each of those squawks:
We sent the boost pump to Aeromotors LLC in Browntown, WI for overhaul. Their price was HUNDREDS of dollars cheaper than anywhere else I could find!
We installed the engine baffle air scoop correctly so that it now points at the cylinder fins for proper cooling.
We installed a new microswitch with a new switch actuator, and researched the wiring diagram and attached the switch wires in the correct location. The “magic hand” landing gear safety system checked good, both on the ground and in flight.
We removed the left aileron, replaced some rivets, reinstalled the aileron correctly with new screws, and adjusted the aileron rigging.
We installed a new set of main landing gear uplock springs, P/N 059, from Performance Aero. (It’s always nice to know the uplock won’t punch a hole in the top of the wing due to failure of the uplock spring!)
We completely disassembled, cleaned, resealed, installed a new pin in the center piston, serviced, and reinstalled the shimmy dampener. It should last a long time now!
And Jim’s door… we installed a serviceable latch assy. in the top of the door, adjusted the bottom pin turnbuckle and resafetied, lubed, and checked… it works great now! Jim’s all set to take his wife flying!
So there you go… another annual inspection completed. We took care of many more squawks as well, but those are some of the highlights.
Jim, it was a pleasure working with you sir! I look forward to the next time!
I’ve known Tom for a long time, and what a fantastic experience it was, working with him on his annual inspection!
Tom is the president of our local EAA chapter, and he’s given me numerous opportunities to speak to the group about maintenance topics. Thank you Tom, for serving our local general aviation community so well!
It had been quite a few years since I had inspected Tom’s Cherokee, and it was a great experience to work with him again in the shop at Classic Aviation, LLC. I was impressed with the way he has kept up the maintenance on his airplane, and I was also reminded once again of the value of getting a different set of eyes on an airplane from time to time.
Other inspectors notice things I don’t see, and I notice things other inspectors don’t see. It’s always been that way, and I suppose it always will be.
So this year, I was happy for the opportunity to work with Tom, and take his Piper Cherokee from really good condition, to even better condition.
Here’s a list of squawks we addressed this year, that I’m confident will put us in a situation where we just might be able to accomplish his next annual inspection in one day, when the time rolls around next year:
Squawk #1: The AD records needed updating.
I sorted through the past AD records, and put all the information into my favorite online AD platform that we use at Classic Aviation LLC, the AD Toolbox, by April and Reuben Zook. These people are awesome, and their service is the best! Check them out at AirworthinessDirectives.com They even have a free trial, and it’s totally worth checking out!
When it comes to AD research, record keeping, and compliance reports, April and Reuben are the go-to people. Why waste your time with some big corporate company, when you can get the best service available from our friends at the AD Toolbox?!
Squawk #2: AD 75-24-02.
This one was a simple matter of verifying the rear seat anchors were still holding the seats firmly in place, with the proper amount of pull tension to pull them up out of the anchor points. The plates with the round holes are where the seat anchors fit into, and must require a minimum of 15 pounds to pull them up out of the anchors.
Squawk #3: AD 76-07-12.
This one is simple, but really important. At low RPM, you momentarily turn the key to “OFF” and then put just a little pressure in the “past off” direction, to make sure the engine does not continue to run (it’s going to quit if you stay there too long,) and then turn the key back to “BOTH.” This verifies you do not have a hot mag when the ignition switch is in the “OFF” position.
Squawk #4: AD 2013-02-13.
This AD is due each 2000 hours, or 7 years, whichever comes first, and begins after an affected Piper is 15 years old. Since many of the Pipers were inspected in 2013, they are now coming due again for this inspection in 2020, 7 years later. Such was the case for Tom’s Cherokee.
This AD requires inspection of the complete stabilator control cable system, with special emphasis on the two turnbuckles in the tail. Since the AD states the inspection is to be done “following instructions 1-10 of Piper SB 1245A,” this is a case where that service bulletin becomes mandatory, because the AD says so.
Therefore, when the service bulletin says to “Disassemble the turnbuckle bodies to facilitate a complete inspection of the turnbuckle bodies and associated cable terminals,” we have no choice but to do that. So if anyone tells you it’s not necessary to take the turnbuckles apart for this AD, they’re simply not correct.
SB 1245A also says to “Clean the turnbuckle bodies and associated cable terminals thoroughly with Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) or acetone prior to inspection. The non-threaded surfaces of the turnbuckle body and cable terminals may be cleaned using Scotch-Brite™ General Purpose Green Scouring Pad 96 or 105b.”
This will give you a like-new appearance of the turnbuckle body. Check it out:
I completely disconnected the cable ends from the turnbuckle body, on both turnbuckles, and inspected them with a 10x magnifying glass, per SB 1245A. They were in excellent condition, so I reassembled them, set the tension, verified full and correct stabilator travel, and installed safety clips in the turnbuckles.
Now Tom is good to go for another 7 years, as far as this AD is concerned.
Squawk #5: Idle speed slightly low.
The fix for this was to simply turn the idle stop screw in 1/2 turn so the throttle control on the carburetor would make contact a little sooner and bring the idle RPM up just a little.
The first thing that got my attention on this one, was the dark brown wear dust that appears when a steel bolt is chafing. The following picture was taken after I installed a new bolt and locknut, but you can still see some of the brown dust.
Squawk #7: Cockpit door stop does not hold the door open.
Since this was not an airworthiness issue, we did not do anything with this one, but I did find some very interesting information. If you own a Piper, you’ll like this one!
I researched and found a new door stop / slide assembly is about $700… yikes!
And wait… Airward.com also has a “Door slide spring” (with the appropriate stainless rivet included,) for a mere $15! In Tom’s case, I think this is all he needs, since the other parts appeared to be in good condition. If you also need the attaching clevis bolts and spacers, you might want to order the $95 kit.
Squawk #8: White powdery growth under battery box.
At first glance, the problem appeared fairly small, with a little evidence of corrosion at the base of the battery box:
But after further investigation, it was obvious, the problem was much bigger UNDER the battery box:
Tom chose to clean and treat this area himself… smart decision in my opinion, and a win-win! I didn’t have to worry about it, and he didn’t have to pay $85 per hour to have it done.
Tom ended up removing the battery box to clean the area.
Squawk #9: Debris inside right spar area in fuselage.
This one showed evidence of a mouse nest, and a prime example of why annual inspections are important. This issue was found after removing the center floor board and inspecting inside the main wing spar carry through area.
Tom chose to clean this up as well… he cleaned the area and treated it with Corrosion-X. It was a fairly simple, but very important part of the annual.
Squawk #10: One loose seat back stop bolt on pilot seat.
This one was simple… I tightened the stop bolt.
Squawk #11: Right aileron chafing on nutplate in forward center console.
This one was a bit challenging to figure out. There was a clicking noise when I pulled the control yoke all the way back and rotated it. Finally, I discovered one of the aileron control cable ends was catching on a nutplate that had moved out of position.
I repositioned the nutplate, and the noise was gone, along with the chafing. It reminded me again, of the importance of tenaciously discovering the source of any out-of-the-ordinary noises.
Squawk #12: One clip nut broken for center floor board attachment.
We ordered a new clip nut for this one.
Squawk #13: GPS antenna not sealed at edge, and at screws.
I’ve seen many airplane antennas that are sealed, and many that are not. Is it absolutely necessary? Some may say not. I prefer to have them sealed around the edge, even though there is typically a gasket, just to safeguard any moisture from getting inside. And in Tom’s case, he had very recently had an avionics upgrade, with a new GPS antenna installed. One of the avionics guys came over to our shop and did a fantastic job of sealing the antenna:
Squawk #14: One cowling pin bushing worn.
There are two of these bushings, one at each forward side of the bottom cowling. The steel pins in the top cowling fit into these bushings, and it’s important to keep them in good condition to prevent metal-on-metal wear between the pin in the top cowling, and the bushing receptacle in the bottom cowling.
In this case, it was time for “out with the old, and in with the new!” The new bushing P/N 69790-000 by PMA Products, is available at Aircraft Spruce for $9.85. McFarlane also has one, which may be better quality… theirs is P/N MC69790-000 and is sold WITH a new snap ring for $25.50.
Squawk #16: Left wing, aft attach bolt slightly loose.
This the the most important one!
This is common on Piper aircraft, and needs to be checked closely!
And, it seems to happen more on the left wing than on the right. I think it might have something to do with the direction of torsional movement that happens during takeoff, landing, and flight, between the wing and the fuselage attachment.
And sometimes it makes a difference if the airplane is on jacks or not, for being able to detect the problem of looseness.
If you can put a wrench on the bolt head on the aft side of the rear spar attachment, and turn it easily, it’s a sure sign it’s too loose.
After verifying the correct torque on this bolt, it’s a good idea to put a stripe of torque putty on both the bolt head, and the locknut on the forward side, so you can tell in the future if it has moved, or not.
Also keep in mind the maintenance manual has specific instructions about torquing these bolts, along with replacing hardware and even installing a repair kit in some cases. Check your maintenance manual for specific instructions, as this is an absolutely critical area.
Another related issue with this aft spar area is the potential for corrosion between the aluminum aft spar of the wing, and the steel plate attached to it, where the bolt attachment is located.
Here’s a great video by Airframe Components showing this critical area and inspection per Piper SB 1244B:
Thank you Tom, for the privilege of working with you on your airplane!
After all the previous work Tom has done to keep his airplane in good condition, and after the work we did this year on the annual, I’m very hopeful we’ll be able to complete his annual next year, in one day! We’ll see how it goes.
Other resources from Dean Showalter:
Video training course: Safety Wire Like A Pro! (Learn to perform safety wiring that keeps everything tight, and makes it look like it was done by an experienced A&P! Don’t settle for mediocre… develop the skill to do your safety wiring well! Click here to check it out. And remember, there’s a money back guarantee… if you’re not satisfied, I wouldn’t want to even keep your money. Try it out for 30 days, and if you’re not satisfied, I’ll gladly give you a full refund… no questions asked.
Need help evaluating exhaust valve pictures? Grab a copy of my Exhaust Valve Borescoping Guide! It will help you understand what to look for when borescoping your exhaust valves… it’s just the resource I wish I had when I was getting started with borescoping. Click here to check it out.
Cessna 172 Common Parts List: Do you need a quick, convenient place to check common part numbers for your Cessna 172? Click here to get a copy of this simple resource you will love!
In today’s episode, we get to hear how John and Leslie got into aviation, and their move from Arkansas to Maui. It’s a real adventure, and I’m sure you’ll be inspired listening to their story!
Be sure to also listen to their latest episode of the Fly Maui Podcast, “Don’t Let Setbacks Define You.” What a timely message for all of us! Listen on your favorite app, or click here for the Fly Maui HI website.
To learn more about John and Leslie and what they’re doing, check out the following links:
You can also find flymauihi and thealoha360 on Instagram.
New resource for Cessna 172’s: I’ve put together an easy-to-use list of common Cessna 172 parts, with part numbers. I’d love to send you a copy, and you can find it here:
Even if you don’t have a 172, take a look at it, and let me know what you think… I might consider making a similar resource for some other types of airplanes as well.
In today’s episode, I’m super excited to introduce John and Leslie Caubble to you!
They’ve become good friends of mine in the last couple years, and they have a really inspiring aviation journey.
We put together some Cessna 172 maintenance related questions, and I thought it would be a lot more fun to have them join me for this episode, rather than me talking about these questions by myself.
In a future episode, we’ll have them back again to talk about their personal aviation journey.
Thanks, John and Leslie, for being a part of this episode!
To learn more about John and Leslie and what they’re doing, check out the following links:
You can also find flymauihi and thealoha360 on Instagram.
I thought this might also be a good time to provide a free resource for owners and operators of Cessna 172’s… it’s a list of commonly needed parts, along with part numbers.
It’s completely free, and I’m confident can save you some significant time and frustration… grab a copy at the following link:
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